Ancient Tiwanaku

Well, the horrors and fascinating tales of travel never fails. Last night saw the antics of three very uncivil British backpackers. The details are irrelevant here, but ask me any time and I´ll gladly relay the stories.  This aside, woke up at 9, and as luck would have it, was able to catch the last morning tour to the ancient ruins of Tiwanaku perched some 44 miles away from La Paz. The drive exiting La Paz pass El Alto neighborhoods was fascinating as it is the section of town populated by vast majority indigenous peoples. Though known to be the poorer section of town, replete with crime, still I found the view out the blurry motion of the bus window something to marvel at. The air all over Bolivia so far chokes the lungs, traffic is severely congested, yet through it all the motion of life admits no pause. One can spend a lot of time to enjoy the scenes here.

The road to Tiwanaku is pristinely beautiful as any I have seen. The vast stretches of open pasture and hills rolling from horizon to horizon delights any city dweller. For miles on end, the landscape unfurls with novel wonders of mud brick homes, flowers, rivers, grazing livestock, and distant rolling clouds that seem unending. Interestingly enough, President Evil Morales had just been there some minuts before as part of some children´s sports ceremony. Our tour group was greeted with soldiers and hundreds of traditionally attired Bolivians.

Traditionally attired Bolivians in celebration at Tiwanaku.
Wiphala of Qullasuyu, the emblem of the indigenous Andean peoples of the region.
Gate of the Sun at ancient Tianawaku.
The commanding "Ponce Stela" at Kalasasaya Temple.
Wildflowers in the fields of Tiwanaku.
Along the rims of Temple Kalasasaya at Tiwanaku.

As for the ruins themselves, they were certainly not as impressive as Angkor or Tikal. However, the site is only partially excavated, and the civilization that thrived here was very advanced based on observation of their knowledge of astronomy, precision masonry, and metallurgy. Some of their constructions looks impossible without the aid of modern machinery; yet, according to the archeological record, Tiwanaku did not even have access to the wheel.  This empire left no written record; consequently, not much is really known of this civilization that predates the Incans, but it gave pause to this wanderer to ponder on the scourge of time and human history.

Continuing excavation of a possible ancient port on the edge of Lake Titicaca.
Strolling pass vast wilderness fields near Tiwanaku.

After returning from the outing, I was alerted that there is to be a national bus strike tomorrow. As it is uncertain when it will end, I booked the next ticket out to Potosi on the last night bus.

The Death Road lives up to its name – casualty count +1

So I survived the Road of Death, but alas there was a death on the road today. It’s one of the most amazing things I’ve done. Too tired to post now, but will share the experience when I have time.

Some of the dozens of crosses dotting the road as a subtle reminder to be VERY careful.
Part of the way includes flying through the cloud line.
Fog, waterfalls, and thousand-foot-down-precipitous-drop-offs.
The Road of Death as it winds under one of many waterfalls.
Sheets of waterfalls drape the cliffsides like a bridal veil.
Triumph pass the midway point. It's much, much steeper than shown.
Rushing towards the end after an exhileratig experience.