A Simple Life

In the summer of my life, in the autumn of an annis mirabilus so filled with carefree wander, I found a quiet moment to reflect on this simple life. THe sky was blue, the air crisp with a fresh autumn chill; and bathed in warm sunlight, I wander into the low hills situated around Mestia to enjoy the simple fruits of this earth. Nestled in the high Caucasus mountains, the town would be plane were it not for the age old Svan towers, traditional defensive towers built up over the centuries.

Unforgettable Luxor at Night

Walls of Luxor still intact after ~3,500 years.
Walls of Luxor still intact after ~3,500 years.
The Pharaoh guards the entrance.
The Pharaoh guards the entrance.
Massive looming columns flank each side.
Massive looming columns flank each side.
Sunset reflected off the ancient sandstones.
Sunset reflected off the ancient sandstones.
The grand column colonnade.
The grand column colonnade.
Dusk over the main courtyard.
Dusk over the main courtyard.
Ramses' statues protecting the courtyard.
Ramses’ statues protecting the courtyard.
A phalanx of sphinxes guard the grand concourse between Luxor and Karnak.
A phalanx of sphinxes guard the grand concourse between Luxor and Karnak.

A Day in the Life of Luxor

Muslim man resting in the afternoon heat.
Muslim man resting in the afternoon heat.
The young and the old passing under the shadow of ancient monuments.
The young and the old passing under the shadow of ancient monuments.
Down the corridors of Luxor.
Down the corridors of Luxor.
Egyptian men fighting the crowd to purchase cigarettes.
Egyptian men fighting the crowd to purchase cigarettes.
...and more donkeys, donkeys everywhere.
…and more donkeys, donkeys everywhere.
A primary mode of transport.
A primary mode of transport.
The butcher exposing meat to heat, dusk, pollution, flies, etc.
The butcher exposing meat to heat, dusk, pollution, flies, etc.
The alley fish monger tempting cats.
The alley fish monger tempting cats.
Fruitt vendor open all day on the busy street.
Fruitt vendor open all day on the busy street.
Away from the center of town, local women about their day.
Away from the center of town, local women about their day.
Local resident sorting her grains.
Local resident sorting her grains.
Taking wrong turns down Luxor's streets.
Taking wrong turns down Luxor’s streets.

Time Travel to Dendera and Abydos

An Egyptian guard patrols the court at Hathor Temple.
An Egyptian guard patrols the court at Hathor Temple.
Mute testimony and solemn homage to the twilight memories of these once-magnificent gods.

Ceiling reliefs inside the Temple of Hathor at Dendera.
Ceiling reliefs inside the Temple of Hathor at Dendera.
Exquisite exterior carvings the Temple of Hathor.
Exquisite exterior carvings the Temple of Hathor.
"Dendera Lights", found in a small crypt chamber below the temple, thought to be related to UFOs by fringed elements.
“Dendera Lights”, found in a small crypt chamber below the temple, thought to be related to UFOs by fringed elements.

The Grandeur and Awe of Abu Simbel

3,300 years old and legacy of Ramses II, Abu Simbel stands alone in grandeur.
3,300 years old and legacy of Ramses II, Abu Simbel stands alone in grandeur.
Opposite view of the faces of Ramses II under perfect light.
Opposite view of the faces of Ramses II under perfect light.
Glyphs adorning the entrance of the Temple.
Glyphs adorning the entrance of the Temple.
Glyphs showing Ramses subduing Nubia.
Glyphs showing Ramses subduing Nubia.
Massive statues of Ramses guarding the corridor.
Massive statues of Ramses guarding the corridor.
Exploring the temple complex.
Exploring the temple complex.

Ventures into Nubia

Egyptian men lounging in the shade to escape the heat.
Egyptian men lounging in the shade to escape the heat.
Glyphs inside the inner santum of Philae.
Glyphs inside the inner santum of Philae.
Onward to the main gate and back in time.
Onward to the main gate and back in time.
Courtyard of the Philae Temple stretching through the centuries.
Courtyard of the Philae Temple stretching through the centuries.

Nis to Kosovo

Not that I’m inherently a thrill seeker; but, having gone this far (and missing the opportunity when I was in Skopje) with a couple days time to spare, I resolved to visit Pristina, Kosovo. My initial inquiry in Belgrade said it would take roughly 8+ hours to traverse the relative short distance to Pristina. Thus, I decided to layover a night in Nis en route to Pristina. Although Nis is the third largest city by population size, there isn’t much to do or see. Within two hours after arriving in the late afternoon, I had toured around the city center and visited the Nis Fortress park. Aside from some ancient ruins scattered throughout, the city is largely drab.

The summer travel season is long over, leaving me the consistently as the odd man out in the streets — a stranger in a strange land mute to their tongue and unaccustomed to their ways. As there isn’t much to do, I pantomimed my way to some food and went back to the posh hostel — I’m the only guest — for some early rest. By morning, I’ll be up early to catch the only to Pristina at 9:30am.

Since the end of the conflict, Kosovo has been a semi-recognized state with de facto independence. The Serbian government’s resort to military force in an attempt to prevent Kosovo’s independence. To prevent another ethnic cleansing, NATO essentially bombed Belgrade into submission (the destruction still evident in the capitol). Serbia still does not recognize Kosovo as independent, but an uneasy peace has held over the last decade; albeit, there is a palpable undercurrent of wounded pride and resentment bubbling from the Serbs at the defeat. Serbia still does not recognize Kosovo as independent. I’m told that anyone transiting Kosovo to Serbia from other countries are often turned around because, as Serbia does not recognize Kosov, the government considers one as having illegally entered Serbia without an passport entry stamp.

To my surprise, the morning bus is empty. Although the bus seats 50, there is only one passenger, namely, me. The driver chain-smokes before departing. The only other person is the attendant, who promptly asked for my passport as soon as the bus departs the station — perhaps there is a borderr control? The bus is actually bound for Gracanica, a small town 10km outside from Pristina where the minority Serbs have congregated following the end of the conflict.