The strange temptations that lead one to cross into borders unknown will always elude rationalization. Who in their right minds willingly cross into Iraq? After decades of war and carnage, sure, there is on-going development and progress; but the region sees so few visitors (tourists) that no guide book exist. What scant information that exists is likely to be out of date and wildly inaccurate. Be as it may, I took a chance on a bus bound for Erbil from Diyarbakir…just to see what’s on the other side.
Norther Iraq is now firmly designated as “Iraqi Kurdistan”. It is the only region safe enough to enter for foreigners; even so, just a few months ago, the radical ISIS fighters encroached to within 15 km of the city center. Security is exceedingly high here — as it must be. The in-bound bus was stopped randomly no less than three times by armed military. Entering any public building, shopping center, supermarket, or cinema requires passing through airport scanners and metal detectors. Just walking down the mall, I was stopped and searched by plain clothes security personnel.
It is a necessary hassle for the locals to put up with; yet, they endure as they always have. After all, Erbil claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth. The old citadel’s foundation at the center of the city dates back 6000 BC, perhaps older. It has seen countless empires and conquerors, yet it endures and will continue to endure amid this arid landscape in the heart of Mesopotamia.
It is at once ancient and surprising. There city of 1.5 million is in a magical boom era infused with foreign investment to secure it’s stability and strategic resources. There are hundreds of hotels, glass-covered malls abound, massive ringed roads (named according to their width in meters; e.g., 100-Meter Ave). Massive American-sized automobiles spew pollution into the air. It is at once a modern city in flux, yet, clinging to its nostalgic roots. Although Kurdish culture dominates, many foreigners from neighboring countries are here keen on the economic opportunities.
