Day: March 4, 2010

The morning dawned to another clear day in high altitude of Potosi (13,420 ft, 4,090 m) and surrounding region. This is an old town dating back to 1544, known for its productive and rich silver mines hidden under Cerro Rico, AKA Rich Mountain hosted up very, very high (15,827 ft, 4,824 m). In fact, it was these mines of Potosi that financed munch of the Spanish empire. Although production has steadily declined over the years, these hills are still rich, and many an industrious hand still join the dangerous mining cooperatives to secure their livelihood in this thin and forbidding air.

Today I joined a tour venturing deep into the dusty, dark  world of these Bolivian miners who ply the trade as their forefathers. It is grueling and dangerous work that evokes sympathy from this outside observer. Some of them make less than $10 a day for risking their life and limbs. The vast majority succumb to siliconosis or other afflictions and die by age 35. The effective working life of these miners is no more than 10 to 15 years before inevitable lung trouble end their career. It is a sad reality of existence, and the miners mitigate their harsh existence by chewing coca leaves, smoking and drinking 96% industrial strength alcohol. The tunnels are dangerous, everything seems makeshift with rudimentary supplies. Even having braved some of the most harrowing adventures, Cerro Rico has to be one of the most intimidating of conditions, especially for those who might be claustrophobic.

I climbed down over 250 ft. below ground through dark, dank, and dusty mazes to see first hand their working conditions. It is extremely dangerous as at any time the shafts can cave in as they are supported by flimsy beems. All work is done by manual labor still with very scarce aid from modern heavy machinery.  The silver and silica dust have cause me to cough a bit after exiting – not good for these lungs when consider how bad the pollution in Bolivian cities are.