I’ve found myself unexpectedly delayed in Cusco while the chaotic coordination (or not thereof) of the re-opening of Machu Picchu is being sorted out by the Peruvian government and tourist agencies. A couple months ago torrential rains and landslides caused massive damage to trails, rail, and roadways leading to Machu Picchu; what’s more, a few people died and thousands were left stranded on the mountain. As the situation is developing, no one really knows when it will re-open, but we can be sure there is a backlog of thousands waiting around Cusco ready to march en mass to the mountain.
Luckily, this ancient bastion of the Inca rulers is literally packed with sites of interests to keep one busy. Yesterday I followed one of the many tour operators day trips and visited the ancient Sacred Valley of the Incan Empire and visited the ruins of ancient royal estate and citadel temples at Ollantaytambo and Pisac (both altitude about 10,000 ft) before visiting the town Chinchero. Again, the temple ruins were most impressive, if not for their architecture then definitely for the magnificent location and vistas that they command. It’s a wonder that they didn’t make use of the wheel even in the late stages of their civilization before the Spanish conquest; yet, they were able to transport 50 ton monolith granite blocks up to incredible heights over steep terrain and fit them with surgical precision. The construction and astronomical importance of these temples are truly stunning.
Though Ollantaytambo was used as fortress stronghold during civil wars and as a based during the Spanish resistance, its main function was for religious purposes. The massive fitted rocks are simply awe-inspiring even though the Temple of the Sun atop the terrace complex was never finished. Even after centuries of exposure and natural destruction, these ruins stand in testament to the once mighty civilization ingenious enough to dream them into existence.
En route hiking to Pisac, the weather suddenly turned and rained briefly over the lush, emerald valley. This sudden blessing resulted in a rare site of a double rainbow over the entire valley! Further, we arrived at the peak of spring with all the flowers blooming along the trail.
