After a day and a half of rest and feasting some of the finest foods in Arequipa, I awoke at 2:45 in the morning to prepare for a 2 day and 1 night tour down Colca Canyon, the “world’s deepest canyon”, … or rather, formerly the world’s deepest canyon at 3191 m (10469 ft) deep. By recent measurements, this title has been ceded over to neighboring Cotahuasi Canyon at some 3340+ meters. Both canyons are more than twice as deep as the famed Grand Canyon. The collectivo bus picked a small group of us up at 3:30 in the morning for a 5 hour drive to the famed perch of Cruz del Condor; a location high above the canyon floor renowned for the splendid views of scenery and wild Andean condors.
As with much of the views over the Andean peaks, it is impossible to capture a picture, even with a panoramic camera. The vistas simply stretch from horizon to distant horizon, and down the dim depths of the canyon. The hazing clouds drift midway up the canyon floor from peak to peak, casting shadows that slowly flicker across the sloping cliff sides.
It took a full days hiking (9 hours total) to descend all the way down to the river and then partially up the opposite canyon wall before reaching the “oasis” where we would shelter for the night. These centuries-old paths wound and zigzag through many a geologic marvel. Though the volcanic formations are relatively recent, they are home to hundreds of species of fauna and flora that carpet the canyon during the latter stages of the wet season. The most famed of all species here is, of course, the Andean condor that soars high above the canyon floor on the thermal updrafts without so much as flapping their wings once. It is truly a site to behold standing on the cliff edges at Cruz del Condor as these rulers of the high heavens swoop by with nary a sound.
The remainder of the hike down was difficult, but shy of grueling. Even with full acclimatization, it took us over 8 hours of walking; what’s more, we’re told that the locals can do this hike in 3 hours. Sure enough, as the tourists march down drenched in sweat, the local people pass us with not so much a heave or a sigh, wearing three layers of clothing, with heaven burdens on their backs. One can’t help but be amazed by their strength and stoutness.
